Look Closer at Lie Sangbong: Shape, Surface and Movement

Korean Design, Up Close, Part 1

Lie Sangbong's clothes invite a second look. A silhouette can expand away from the body; a printed surface can suggest a painting or a building. For anyone curious about Korean designer fashion, his archive offers an approachable exercise in looking: follow the shape first, the surface second, and the garment in motion last.

The designer's own website describes architecture as a recurring influence and explains how a Bauhaus-inspired collection imagined the body as “mobile architecture.” Its collection notes also connect geometric design with dancheong, the decorative painting associated with Korean architecture. These are useful starting points for viewing the work, rather than rules that explain every outfit. LIE SANGBONG's collection archive

Start with the outline

The archival runway photograph accompanying this article shows a dress built visually from rounded, stacked bands of color. Before naming an influence, notice where its volume sits: the shape widens and contracts repeatedly down the body. That observation tells you more about the particular garment than a general description such as “bold.”

Try covering part of the image with your hand and looking only at its outer edge. Then look again at the whole photograph. This is a simple way to separate a garment's silhouette from the color, lighting and theatrical setting that help it command attention.

The image comes from the Korean Cultural Centre UK's “Korea Shining Bright” presentation at London's Victoria and Albert Museum. The official event description dates the reception to July 30, 2012, and records two catwalk presentations featuring 60 outfits. These photographs document that archival occasion. KCCUK's event photograph

Follow the surface

A different route into the designer's work is his collaboration with Vienna's Belvedere. The museum says he created 65 pieces in a collection inspired by Gustav Klimt's The Kiss, using embroidery and pattern work to reinterpret the artwork. The collection also appeared in Vienna on September 5, 2023, during the museum's anniversary fundraising event. Belvedere's account

When exploring those looks, ask what happens to a motif as it crosses a seam, curves around the torso or meets a transparent section. A pattern printed on a flat page behaves differently when the wearer turns. Comparing surface and shape is more revealing than simply recognizing the original artwork.

Watch one collection twice

Seoul Fashion Week's official channel offers a separate Spring/Summer 2023 runway film. Watch once without pausing, then return to two or three looks that held your attention. On the second pass, follow the hem, sleeve and shoulder as the model walks. Treat this as an archive viewing session, with the season clearly in mind. Official runway film

Finally, choose one detail you would like to understand better: proportion, layering, a repeated color or the relationship between structure and movement. You do not need to buy a runway look to learn something useful from it.

For readers considering an in-person visit, the brand currently lists its flagship at 451 Dosan-daero in Gangnam, Seoul. Contact the store through the official website before traveling to confirm opening hours and available collections. The archival garments and videos here should not be read as a current stock list. Brand contact details

Image sources and licenses: Korean Cultural Centre UK (KCCUK) / Republic of Korea · CC BY-SA 2.0; Korean Cultural Centre UK (KCCUK) / Republic of Korea · CC BY-SA 2.0